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Semi Traditional Process

Nov 01, 2022

The semi traditional process is formed by properly simplifying the traditional suit process, which retains the main features of the traditional process. Suits made with this process are also called semi hemp lined suits. There are usually two ways to cover the lining: one is to glue a spinning fusible lining to the corresponding part of the front garment piece of the suit as the large body lining, while the lapel lining is made of black carbon; The other is to glue the spun adhesive lining on the front of the suit as the large body lining, and then select the high-quality black carbon lining as the main chest lining above the waist section of the large body, and the same black carbon lining is used for the lapel lining. When cutting the lining, the main chest lining and the lapel lining can be cut together, or the lapel lining and the main chest lining can be cut and lined separately. People in the industry usually call the latter process "digging the lapel lining". The combination chest lining made of high-quality black carbon lining, high-density horsetail lining and breast velvet is also selected for the chest and shoulders. The suit made with this technology is thin, smooth and comfortable. Compared with the traditional craft suit, its practice is relatively simple, time-saving, and the processing cost is reduced, but the shape retention of the ready to wear is not as good as the traditional craft suit.

As the front lapel of the semi linen lined suit is not sticky, the wool lining and the fabric should be directly sewn. This requires that the fiber strength of the wool lining and the fabric should be uniform and appropriate, and the tightness should be appropriate. At the same time, the fiber lapel is also the key point of the process. It must achieve that the wool lining is not allowed to penetrate the fabric without penetrating the needle. After the fiber is finished, the two lapels will show a natural inverted state without penetrating the needle, to achieve the perfect embodiment of the appearance. Therefore, the standards in terms of process requirements are very high, and the technical requirements for workers are also very high. The good combination between the surface and auxiliary materials also breaks the flat and hard feeling of the lapel of the previously bonded lining suit, fully reflecting the handle of the fabric and the elasticity of the wool lining. It is a suit craft that integrates modeling and comfort.


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